A rival to Idaho's ritzy Sun Valley is ready to sprout outside 1800s mill town - Jill Fergus, New York Daily News
4/1/2008
Under a moonlit sky, I am snowshoeing along a torch-lit trail in Ponderosa State Park in central Idaho. My fellow travelers and I are on our way to a Mongolian-style yurt where a four-course dinner with spiced wine will be served.
Though the mile-long trek is easygoing, it's still good to get out of the cold and into the warmth of the yurt, which is heated by an antique wood-burning stove.
We are greeted warmly by the host/ chef, Lisa Whisnant, who runs the seasonal dining operation called Blue Moon Outfitters. As we feast on fried calamari with a sweet ginger sauce and spicy pork sausage, I can't help but think to myself, "I am in a yurt. In the middle of the forest. In Idaho. Gee, wonder what they're doing back in New York?"
Ponderosa State Park is located in McCall, a tiny mountain town 2-1/2 hours from Boise in scenic Valley County.
Haven't heard of it? You're not alone.
But that is likely to change. This former mill town settled in the 1880s is just 20 minutes from Tamarack, one of the Gem State's largest developments. This multi-million, year-round resort opened in 2004 and construction is ongoing.
The Village Plaza complex, with condos, restaurants and shops, will open by next ski season, and a five-star Fairmont, backed by Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf, is on the horizon. The developers envision it as an alternative to Idaho's ritzy Sun Valley resort.
And McCall, with its picture-perfect setting - on the edge of glacier-carved Payette Lake and surrounded by snow-capped mountains - is poised to benefit from the building boom (some locals understandably have mixed feelings about all the changes).
McCall has its own quirky character, and the feeling is that despite the growth in the valley it will retain its small-town atmosphere. As of now, it's virtually chain-free (there's just one Subway, but no Starbucks), and places like the no-frills Pancake House and Bistro 45, a funky wine bar where patrons play board games while sipping Merlot, are always packed.
The population (around 2,500) is an interesting mix of old-timers, Forest Service workers, nature lovers and wealthy Idaho and California families with second homes on the lake. They have all fallen under the spell of the unspoiled alpine setting and easy access to pursuits like cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and downhill skiing at the local Brundage resort (there's mountain biking, hiking and fishing in the summer).
REDS & WHITES, WINE NOT SPUDS
There are a handful of motels along the main street, but the best place to stay is the Whitetail Club & Resort on the lake's southern shore. Opened in 1948 as the Shore Lodge, the rustic property was purchased by San Diego-based Manchester Grand Resorts in 1993 and underwent a $25 million renovation. Many of the original elements remain, including river rock slabs and pinewood planks in the lobby, and walls are lined with old black-and-white photos of McCall, lending a nostalgic touch.
The 77 European-style suites feature Italian linens, mahogany furnishings and marble baths, and many have balconies overlooking the lake. Throughout the lodge, there are stone fireplaces and cozy sitting rooms where guests can unwind after a day of activity.
On my last night, we ate in the private dining room of Whitetail's gourmet restaurant, the Narrows. The continental menu makes use of local products like rainbow trout, game, Snake River Farms beef, huckleberries and, of course, potatoes.
I ordered a pear salad with pecan-encrusted goat cheese and venison osso buco prepared by executive sous-chef Rodney Rivers. The dishes were paired with wines including a lovely Idaho Ste. Chapelle Riesling (okay, I'll admit I didn't know Idaho produced wine).
It was as different an experience as one can have from dining in a yurt, and yet, they are both authentic McCall experiences not to be missed.
